How am I supposed to use the -audiodev option?

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No matter what I try, it keeps slapping me on the face with a
"audiodev default parameter is deprecated, please specify
audiodev=foo" warning:

$ qemu -soundhw ac97 -audiodev alsa,id=alsa
audio: Device ac97: audiodev default parameter is deprecated, please
specify audiodev=alsa
$ qemu -audiodev alsa,id=alsa -soundhw ac97
audio: Device ac97: audiodev default parameter is deprecated, please
specify audiodev=alsa

Of course, trying to specify anything like "audiodev=alsa" anywhere
results in an error. And omitting either the -audiodev or the -soundhw
option results in no sound in the guest.

I'll have to either grit my teeth or use the "deprecated"

QEMU_AUDIO_DRV=alsa qemu -soundhw ac97

and try to forget about it.

Also, the "documentation" is as obtuse as humanly possible, and gives
no hints whatsoever to how to emulate multiple sound cards and direct
them to different backends.